The only problem with a beautiful and modern looking albergue with a 20 foot ceiling and large expansive rooms housed in a building that is a thousand years old is the temperature control. The wind howled around through much of the night, and even the body heat of those inside did nothing to raise the […]

The altitude heading out of St Jean Pied de Port is right around 170m. Six or seven hours and 20km later, as you cross Col de Lepoeder at 1450m, you may find yourself wondering if it is possible to climb that long or if you have started hallucinating somewhere on the route. It was at […]

Camino de Santiago, day 0. Heavy dark clouds define the morning. A steady rain falls. Cool fog curls around the surrounding hillsides. The two car train from Bayonne works a slow, meticulous route through the hills, the pace only adding to the tension. An adventure is about to begin and almost everyone on the train […]